Sususnia hill stands tall at 1200 feet amidst the undulating landscape
of red soil covered with green forests, water bodies and flowing river
Gandheswari. It’s quite, its enchanting and just an ideal place to unwind and
spent a quite weekend.
I was there on March 07th and 08th 2015. This
is possibly the best time to explore Bankura and Purulia districts, just to
watch the abundance of Palash in full bloom. I wanted to be there, amidst the
Palash, engulfing the entire landscape into flaming shade of orange. Susunia
seemed to be the ideal place. Just 230 odd KM away from Kolkata, it’s still
unspoilt. The tourism rush hasn't yet caught on, thus the serenity prevails.
My friend Arindam and I started off in my car from Kolkata. We drove from
Kolkata to Muchipara crossing at Durgapur through the excellent NH-2. We turned
left from here and took the road leading to Bankura. From Bankura, Susunia is
just about 24 kilometres via Chhatna.
The magic started once to took the road to Bankura. Once past the
crowded Barjora, and the barrage on river Damodar, the scenery changed
magically. The road went up and down, meandering thru’ the beautiful landscape.
Though single lane, the road had sparse traffic and excellent surfacing and we
maintained good speed. We crossed Bankura town, had a quick lunch and
moved towards Chhatna. This was Palash country. On both sides of the road the
trees were in full bloom. It was as if the whole place is on fire, Fiery Orange
was the dominating colour. The sleek black strip of tarmac ran between the
trees.
I slowed down the car, rolled down the glass to breath in the crisp air.
Up and down we went, past the Chhatna town to the last 10 KM stretch to
Susunia. We were only seeing undulating but flat countryside. All around us was
barren red soil with occasional coverage of light vegetation. Unlike Burdwan
and Hoogly districts which crossed there was hardly any sign on cultivation. As
we drew near, suddenly the Susunia hill raised its head at the horizon, a
grey form against the blue backdrop of the sky. It looked like a giant
wave, suddenly culminated out of a gently rolling sea and froze.
At 1200 feet
height Susunia hill will not break any records (In fact it’s the second
tallest peak in Bankura after Biharinath) but it’s more ancient than the mighty
Himalayas. The hamlet of Susunia is at the base of the hill. We drove past the
hill to our place of stay, Aranyak run by the local gram panchayet.
Right opposite ‘Aranyak’, across the road, is the forest of Sal, Palash, Shimul trees
which went up the slopes of Susunia hills. In the evening we were out taking a
stroll in the forest and explored thru’ the trails. It was beautiful and
quiet inside. The only sound was breaking of twigs and dry leaves under
our feet, and intermittent chirping of the birds. We roamed around, took
photographs, sat of the rocks, climbed up a little of the slopes.
Then the light started fading. Sun was setting opposite the hill,
casting deep shadows inside the forest.
We decided to move out before it got
too dark. We strolled around the road and came to the crossing where a
road on the left leads towards the hill. This was the only busy place in
the area which had few tea stalls, eateries, medicine and grocery shops. This
was also the bus stop. We sat at a tea stall, chatted up with the locals
for some time and then retreated back to our hotel.
Next morning we started early towards the hill. At the base of the
hill there is a temple of Kali and a stone statue of “Narasimha” on an open
raised cemented platform. The monolith Narasimha statue had an odd look, its
bare, somewhat demonic and unlike any images of Gods that we usually see. This
doesn’t match the description of Narasimha found in the Puranas. It’s more like
a god worshipped by the aboriginals. This is the land of our ancient tribes,
the Santhals, Munda, Kols, Bhils and this statue must have links with the
ancient tribal religious practises rather than more modern concept of Narasimha
in Hindu Purans. I did not get much information about this statue. If any
reader is aware of it’s origin and history I would request him/her to share the
information.
Just behind the Narasimha statue, there is an cemented enclosure made
where spring water is coming out of a stone gargoyle or a curved projected
sprout. Local people bathe and collect the water. Water comes down from
somewhere up the hill and it flows round the year.
Through where we stood is not the tallest point. I could see another peak behind us which is much taller. There is another trail which goes down the slopes of the hill on the opposite side and then again up the taller peak. We did not have time and energy to explore and conquer the taller peak so we called it quits and climbed down. At the base there are several stalls where local artisans sell various items carved out of stone. There are smaller artefacts made of compressed stone dust. One can buy some mementos from here.
The next visit was the ‘rock inscription’ (Shilalipi) which is
supposed to be the oldest found in West Bengal. This was
about 2.5 kms away from Aranyak, where we were staying. We drove on the
main road and then found another road under ‘Pradhamantri Gram Sadak Yojona’
branching out to our right. This road circumvents the Susunia hills and runs
towards the Eastern slope. After a few hundred meters the roads runs
through beautiful forested landscape. Surprisingly we did not find and board or
mark for direction to the ‘Shilalipi’ sight. We kept asking the locals for
direction. After about 2 odd kms the road leads to a village. Just before
entrance of the village a trail towards right leads into the forest towards the
hill. We were told by locals to follow that trail. We drove in as the
trail was broad enough for the car to pass. After few hundred meters of careful
driving we reached a junction point where other trails emerged and went into
different directions. Now it was confusing and we didn’t see a soul to ask for
direction. We decided to wait and finally met a local guy who had shown us the
direction further. We decided not to take further chance of driving as the
trail was getting narrower. There was no place to turn the car around and if
faced with a blockade we would have no option but to back out on reverse gear
all the way. We decided to walk the rest.
This trail was leading straight
onto the slope of the forested hill and soon the climb started. It wasn’t
a easy trail and going up was quite a task trying to balance on the rocks a
boulders. After climbing for some time I could see a wooden enclosure on
the rock face towards my left. The final few meters were literally scaled
on all fours. But what a disappointment it was. There was a customary blue
board by ASI that this was a ‘protected’ site but all the protection I could
see is a broken wooden frame with a wire mesh around the rock face where the
encryptions were made. There was hardly any place to get a proper foothold and
stand in front. The iron grill and the wire mesh made it impossible to take a
good look. The encryption is in pathetic state, I could find graffiti made
by morons on the very face of the inscriptions, almost destroying what
was left. This is a matter of shame and there is no effort by ASI or Govt
to restore it.
Now time for some history on this rock inscription. It is believed that
this inscription dates back to fourth century AD and the work by King
Chandravarman of Puskarana. According to Prof, Suniti Chattopadhyay, a
noted expert on Indian Linguistics and Phonetics, ancient Puskarana is
traced back to a village named Pokharan (Pokharna) on the river Damodar in the
Bankura district of West Bengal, about 25 miles northeast of Susunia Hill. It
is believed that King Chandravarman had ruled southwest Bengal in 4th
Century BC and also built a fort on top of the hill. No traces of that
fort can be found today. Later, it is believed that he was killed in a battle
with King Chandra Gupta Maurya.
The inscription is in two parts and there is a very prominent
engraved wheel (Charkra) with flaming rim, hub and multiple spokes (about fifty).
The first inscription states that this is the work of Majaraja Chandravarman of
Pushkarana. The second inscription on the right hand side of the engraved wheel
says that the village of Choshagrama was given as gift to Chakrasvamin, which
literally means the 'wielder of the Chakra’. This according to the Hindu cult
is Lord Vishnu. Thus it may be reasonably inferred that the excavated cave, on
the wall of which the inscription was incised, was intended to be a temple of
Vishnu. The inscriptions are in Sanskrit but engraved in Brahmi
script.
There is another script visible on the rock face which is quite
different from the Brahmi engravings. This is known as “Shankha Lipi”.
This could not be deciphered yet. Shankha Lipi is believed to be a
stylized & ornate form of Brahmi Lipi. It’s named Shankha Lipi
as the calligraphic characters resemble the shape of conch shells. There
is also a debate as to whether this is actually a script or merely symbols.
All Shankha Lipi inscriptions found so far are short and looks like it’s been
used as signatures under other scripts like Brahmi. Short scripts of Shankha Lipi
were also found at excavations sites at Chandraketugarh & Tamluk
in Bengal.
However due to the barricade and lack of proper place to stand I found
it quite difficult to see and photograph the inscriptions properly. But
this is definitely interesting, particularly for students of history of ancient
India.
For detailed photos & descriptions on the inscriptions you can refer to the following blog.
Near the inscriptions there is a small stream emanating from the hills
called ‘Dhara’. It’s believed that the water has medicinal properties. It’s
beautiful spot amidst the green surroundings.
From here we started our journey back home. We were to told that there
is fossil site where one can see fossils of different animals ie, Hyena, Giraffe
etc. but we were running short of time and could not see it.
Some important point for visitors:
- This is a place where you relax and enjoy the pristine natural beauty. There are not many activities to do. So do not go with lot of expectation. It will be your quite time with nature.
- The best season will be February – Early March when the weather is ambient and whole area is glowing with the blooming orange Palash. If you are a nature photographer, it’s pure bliss for you.
- If you are planning to go to the hilltop it is advisable you start early to avoid the heat, particularly if you are going in warmer seasons.
- If you are attempting to climb Susunia in the evening you MUST come down before it’s dark.
- The climb, though not much, requires a certain amount of physical fitness and it is advisable that you understand your physical limits. Don’t push yourself if you are out of breath or face other physical difficulties. Do carry a bottle of water. You will need it.
- To go to the Shilalipi site you also need to climb some distance up the slope. If you are staying at any hotel at the base of the hill, the distance is around 3 KMs. I did not see any autorickshaw or any other mode of transport to reach the Shilalipi site. If you have your own car you can drive down to the base of the hill. It possible to take the car quite close up the trails, just at the base where the climb will start. We were not too sure so we parked the car at some distance but later saw that we could have gone further. it’s actually easy to take the car up-to the base of the hill. There are no notice boards or signs showing direction to the Shilalipi site. So you need to keep asking the locals. Inside the forest it’s often difficult to find a soul to ask. It’s sad that Govt. has not done something as basic as to put up directions to help tourists. Be warned that it will not be much of a sight after a hard climb, so you may curse yourself particularly if you have no interest if history. The view of the surrounding plains from the top is breathtaking though.
- There will be a fair bit of walking and climbing. So carry a pair of strong hiking boots or sneakers. Avoid floaters, slippers and high heels.
- The area is generally safe and there is no report of serious crimes or insurgency in recent times in this area. However as a measure of abundant caution, don’t venture out alone in the forests after dark.
- The nearest hospital is about 20 KM away between Chhatna & Bankura. This is a private hospital with all facilities like an emergency room and trauma care unit.
HOW TO REACH:
The nearest rail head is Chhatna (CJN) which is about 10 KMs from
Susunia. The following trains will drop you at Chhatna. From Chhatna you
can take a bus to Susunia.
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You can also catch a train to Bankura Town. Bankura Town is situated 23
KMs away and it’s connected by lot of trains from Kolkata.
Trains From Shalimar Station to Bankura:
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Trains from Howrah Station to Bankura Town
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If you plan to come by bus, you need to come to Bankura. Lot of buses
are available from Kolkata to Bankura.
If you come to Bankura by Train or Bus, you will get buses to reach
Susunia. You can get a bus for Susunia from Durgapur as well. You also have the
option of hiring a car from Bankura and It is possible to cover Susunia
in a day trip from bankura.
If you have your own car and coming from Kolkata, I would suggest
the following two route options:
We went by Kolkata > Muchipara > Barjora > Bankura >
Chhatna > Susunia route, and road conditions were fantastic all through. In
the other two options you will face congested single lane roads, through
distance by kilometers is less.
WHERE TO STAY:
Susunia has several stay options:
SUVAM HOTEL: This is situated at the base of the hill and you will
come across this resort first if you are approaching from Chhatna. There are
AC as well as Non AC cottages. This is also very near to the Eco
Park which is built at the base of the hill. The Kali Temple and Narasimha is
just 2 minutes’ walk from here. The Tariff is between Rs.1200/- and Rs.1800/- for double accommodation.
Booking details:
Suvam Hotel,
Muruthbaha Eco Park, Susunia Hills
Debashish Dutta - 7031393409 / 9832344544
Durgapur Office - (0343) 2547540/2352
E Mail - hotelsuvam@rediffmail.com
ARANYAK: As you drive further from Suvam hotel, you will come across this
moderate two story building. This guest house is run by the local gram
panchayet. It has
four rooms, one AC and one non AC on the first floor. Ground floor has a room with common bath and a dormitory type room with
three beds. Its basic but reasonably
clean. However you are advised to carry your own towel and toileteries. Staffs
are local people, not professionals, but very decent and friendly. If you wish
to go around, you can tell them and one of them will be happy to be a
guide for you for very moderate fee.
Booking Details:
Phone No : 03242-234201
YOUTH HOSTEL: Just ahead of Aranyak is the spanking new youth hostel opened in 2014.
This has dormitory as well as rooms.
Booking details :
Directorate of Youth Services,
32/1, B.B.D. Bag (South), Standard Building,
2nd floor, Kolkata- 700001.
Ph. No. – 91 – 33 – 2248 – 0626
91 – 33 – 2265 – 3231
91 – 33 – 2210 – 6767
RED ROCK Resort: This is your luxury option with all bells and whistles like swimming
pool, luxury cottages and multi-cuisine restaurant.
Booking details :
Red Rock Resort
Jamthol, Jhunjhka, Near Susunia Hills
Phone No. 83890 33831
Tariff between Rs.1200 - 1800 for double accommodation.
WHAT TO EAT:
All hotels except Youth Hostel will provide you with food. However
at Aranyak, the caretaker told us that they won't be serving us food as cooking gas was not available. So they brought dinner for us from a local eatery. We
got a simple chicken preparation, with gross overdose of salt and chillies
along with rotis. This was obviously one of situation and normally you will get meal at 'Aranyak'.
There are few eateries at the road junction near the base
of the hill which cater to the tourists.
If you are into alcoholic beverages, please remember to carry your
choice of poison as there are no shops nearby. Connoisseurs of King Size cigarettes
are advised to do the same.
