THE TEMPLES OF SIRPUR - CHATTISGARH

THE LAXMAN TEMPLE – SIRPUR

Situated in the Mahasamund district of Chattisgarh, on the banks of river Mahanadi, Sirpur is a small town about 85 kilometres away from the State capital Raipur. This small town is home to some beautiful temples and other ruins of historical importance.  The most prominent amongst all is the “Laxman Temple” which was built between circa 625 and 630AD. From an inscription recovered from the temple site records that this temple as built by Queen Vasata, widow of King Harsh Gupta.

King Harsha Gupta belonged to the ‘Kosala’ sect of the Panduvamshi dynasty (the other being the Mekala sect) which ruled the South Kosala, which is the Chattisgarh of today.  He started ruling in AD 580. He was married to Vasata, the daughter of the Maukhari King Suryaverma of Magadha.

After a short reign, Harshagupta was succeeded by Shivagupta alias Balarjuna who ruled for sixty years, from AD 595 to 655. It is believed that Hiuen Tsang had visited Sirpur during his reign. Probably this was the time when the glory of the Panduvamshi dynasty reached it’s peak. The kingdom was weakened after the death of Shivagupta and the kingdom fell to the invasion by the Nalas, who ruled over the region now known as Bastar. A genealogy of the Panduvamshi Dynasty is given below.

Genealogy – The genealogy constructed through the epigraphs looks as given below:

Udayana

|
Indrabala

|
————————————————————————————————-

|                           |                                  |                                                              |
Bhavadeva        Ishanadeva          Nanna I                                      Name is lost

|

———————

|                           |
Tivaradeva         Chandragupta

  |                            |

 Nanna II             Harshagupta

                              |

                                  ———————

                                   |                           |

                                            Shivagupta      Ranakesarin

       |

               Sivanandin

The Panduvamshis were worshippers of Lord Shiva, however the Laxman temple was dedicated to Lord Vishnu. On the ornate stone doorway to the ‘Garbhagriha’ a reclining statue of Lord Vishnu in ‘Anantsajjya’ can be seen. However the once beautiful stone curving is now damaged and you will be hard pressed to make out the form.

Min Entrance of Laxman Temple

The Brick temple is an imposing structure set on a high platform. The temple has three parts, the ‘Garbhagriha’ which housed the idol, “Antarala” and an elaborate enclosed pillared “Mandapa’. However as on date the Mandapa has only the remnants of the two rows of pillars consisting of eight pillars in each row with corresponding pilaster on the side wall.

Laxman Temple Complex - Sirpur

Laxman Temple Sirpur - Main Entrance

The Shikhara of Laxman Temple

Laxman Temple - view from the side

Intricate work on stone - Laxman Temple 

Laxman Temple - Inner Sanctum

The temple is now under ASI protection and maintenance as a ‘national monument’.

THE SURANG TILA – SIRPUR

This is the most unique temple structure I have seen anywhere in India. This temple complex was unearthed very recently in the year 2005-2006. While I passed by twhat attracted my attention was a huge towering mass of white stone laid out like brickwork. I entered from the back where I could see the imposing walls. I walked around the structure and came to the front. I found something which resembled the ruins of a ‘Toran Dwara” or an ornate gateway at the front. Right before me as I stood dominating the entire frontage was a huge staircase, which seemed to reach the skies. This flight of 37 steep stairs leads to the main platform which is one of the highest in Central India. On this platform which is called the “Mahamandapa” there are five sanctums. Also there are remains of thirty two ornate pillars strewn all around which once held the roof.

Surang Tila - View from the front

Surang Tila - Front Courtyard

Surang Tila - Wide view of the courtyard

The three Eastern and Northern Garbhagrihas or ‘Sanctums” have Shiva Lingas and the southern Garbhagriha has the Idol of Ganapati. The stone door jambs of each of the sanctums as well as the pillars have intricate curving depicting Nrisimha and other sculptures of various gods, goddesses, asuras & apsaras and animals.

Surang Tila - Sirpur Entrance of the Sanctum

Surang Tila - Inside the Sanctum

How to reach: Sirpur is well connected by Road from Raipur. The journey by car should take about two and half hours and in September 2014 the road condition was pretty good. From Raipur one has to drive towards Arang. From Raipur to Aarang it’s single lane but work is on to convert it in a four lane expressway. After crossing Arang you need to keep on driving straight and cross Mahanadi and proceed past ‘Tumgaon’. After crossing ‘Tumgaon” the beautiful Kodar Reservoir will be seen on your right. From here you need to turn right which leads straight to Sirpur. There are boards of both NHAI & Chattisgarh Tourism for direction at this juncture. From this point Sirpur is about 15 KMs and it’s a beautiful drive through forested road forming a green canopy all along.

Sirpur can also be reached from ‘Bhatapara’ which is the nearest railway station on the Kolkata Mumbai route, however not all trains stop here. There are regular bus services from Raipur but it is better to hire a car.

Driving direction

Sirpur can also be reached from ‘Bhatapara’ which is the nearest railway station on the Kolkata Mumbai route, however not all trains stop here. There are regular bus services from Raipur but it is better to hire a car.

Where to Stay: The best place to stay is at the Chattisgarh Tourism Board resort situated at the heart of Sirpur. All the temples are within 1 – 1.5 kilometres from this place and can be explored on foot. For the more adventurous souls there are staying arrangements at various Jungle Resorts at Barnawapara Reserve Forest which is some 15KMs away from Sirpur. But then there is no public transport from this place and you have to have your own transport to move around. To get a feel of the wilderness, the MUBA’s Resort is highly recommended for staying.

What to eat: Sirpur is a small town and you can only find small roadside eateries serving basic food. If you are staying at the Chattisgarh Tourism Board guest house or any of the Jungle Resorts at Barnawapara, you will get food served at their restaurants. If you are going for a day trip it is advisable to carry some food. Keep mineral water bottles handy too if you are visiting in warmer seasons.